Juliet Tune-Up Question

[Shilock]

New to the forums here and hope I’m posting in the right place.

I recently dusted off my old Juliets after having shelved them when the nose bridge eroded away and the lenses began to flake. So I’m attempting to do my own DIY repair. I was a little hesitant about removing the nose pins without the special tool, but figured worst case I go back to wearing my Pit Boss 2s. Long story short I’ve gotten everything apart and cleaned.

Ive read/heard different opinions about the reuse of the original nose pins, one being they are designed as a one-time use and once removed cannot be reused Or if they aren’t damaged during removal then they should be fine.

Are all screws created equal? Or just go with the least expensive option you can find?

ill need new lenses of course and have found opinions on Fuse and Revant, but have since learned there are some people here that do amazing work cutting from a donor lens. Since I know nothing about this process how do u determine the person who cut the lens took into consideration lens geometry and such rather than just taking a demel to a donor?

 

[MongooseBlanco]

It’s possible to reuse the pins, but when you can get a replacement pin/flex couplers set from OXM parts for less than $20, you might as well not risk it. Don’t use too much force when inserting pins because if they are at the wrong angle, they can start to damage the front of your nose bridge.

New Flex Couplers Pins Repair Nose Bridge Oakley X Metal Juliet XX Penny Romeo 2 | eBay

Clean the bridge cavity thoroughly to ensure it is free from ALL debris before installation. The Flex Couplers should fit snugly in to the cavity for maximum shock absorption. Make sure bridge cavity is clean and free of debris.

www.ebay.com

Screws don’t really matter all that much as long as they are the right size / threading. If one doesn’t fit don’t force it and damage the threads.

THE place to go for lenses is our resident Optometrist Extraordinaire @Chris A Hardaway. He uses OEM Lenses at proper base curves, and is the consummate professional. His eBay store can be found here;

| eBay

 

[Shilock]

Thanks for the quick response. I’ve seen his name pop up on almost every thread I’ve read about lenses and I was just looking at his cutting post. I wasnt sure if I could reference “ebay”, which prompted my questions. I know several members here offer their items on eBay and I would rather spend a little more knowing I’m getting a quality item. The same way on the pins, if it’s only $20 then why not replace them.

Also, I was trying to identify which model I have, but they don’t have a serial or model number etched on the frame and the box is long gone, but I kept the medal. I’m relatively sure they are plasma with fire. Seems like a common set up back in the day. Really liked the look and I think my lenses are too far gone for identification.

 

[MongooseBlanco]

For sure. The OXM flex couplers require a bit of trimming, but he has a tutorial about how to do that on his website. He includes a link to that in the packaging with the couplers.
IMO the very best couplers are the NBFC 90 ones from LineGearJapan. No trimming required and they’re as solid as a rock. Fantastic customer service over there too.

 

[Wicked]

For sure. The OXM flex couplers require a bit of trimming, but he has a tutorial about how to do that on his website. He includes a link to that in the packaging with the couplers.
IMO the very best couplers are the NBFC 90 ones from LineGearJapan. No trimming required and they’re as solid as a rock. Fantastic customer service over there too.

He can also hit up @zwc0442

 

[Shilock]

Linegear was where I first started my research and i was trying to do research yesterday on the difference between the NBFC 80 vs 90 with no luck. Also sent messages to OXM and XMan, but hadn’t heard back from them yet. Wondering what the difference was between the tight or loose fit temple washers. i found 4 during tear down, some looked a little warped.

 

[Shilock]

Started with Linegear but by the time I placed everything in the cart and then calculated Shipping I was up around $175ish. Wasn’t sure at that time If the repair was worth it when I could just get a brand new pair of Oakleys. I had found a sweet deal on the Pit Boss 2 And that’s when the Juliets got shelved. But the Pit Bosses are starting to get a little crusty on the lower edge. Hence my search into a tune up started again.

 

[Shilock]

This is how far I’ve gotten so far. My rubbers are all in good shape. Need nose pins, bridge rubber, orbital rubber, temple washers and I lost a friggin orbital screw. it was there and then it wasn’t. Spent a day searching the floor and garage. No serial or model number, but I think plasma with fire.

 

[MongooseBlanco]

The NBFC 90 is a bit more solid/less flexible than the NBFC 80, I prefer the 90 because the frames are very rigid after the tuneup and less flex means they’ll break down less quickly.

The OEM/loose fit temple washers require 8 per frame, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom of each stem. I like to use hand sanitizer to hold them in place and kind of pinch them on both sides while reinserting the stem into the orbital. Once in place, use a toothpick to line them all up before inserting the screw.

Most of the aftermarket washers are thicker and only require 2 per stem (1 top and 1 bottom).

 

[Shilock]

Awesome thanks. I remember reading some used 2 washers, but they didn’t say why. Thickness.
I remember seeing the OXM thing about trimming the coupler, but thought that was only for Romeo, not Juliets. I’ll double check. Ahh just the corner cut was for Romeos. I would have missed that.