RonkPM
Oakley Expert
So I recently purchased a display case that was missing it's door and had two broken hinges. I figured since I had spent a bit of time researching and ordering parts I would do a write up on how I did it and what I used. All parts were purchased from McMaster-Carr. Here is the case as I bought it (not too sure what the version of the case is) 
The hinges I found are available in both removable and non-removable pin versions. Use whichever you would like, but i went with the non ones. The original hinges measured 2.5"x2.5" and these new ones match excellent. The part numbers for the unfinished aluminum hinges without pre-drilled holes are: Non-Removable Pin: 1609A42 Removable Pin: 1609A21 I used a .25" transfer punch to, uhh, transfer the hole spacing and location from the old broken hinge to the new one and drilled the holes out to .25". I then used 000 steel wool to make a brushed finish. If I had a sand blaster I could have gotten the finish closer to original, but alas that is on my to-buy list. Here is the progression of the hinges. 
The original hinges are held on by solid rivets, uhh, riveted in with an air hammer and forming/backing block. Since I did not have either of those two things handy, I decided to thread them like the threaded rivets holding the top of the case to the uprights. The original rivets have a head on them that are .630" in diameter and .110" tall. I finally found ones that matched as close as possible at McMaster-Carr. The ones I ordered have a head that is .615" in diameter and matches the height. The shank on them are .25" diameter x .625" long. The down side is you have to order these rivets in packages of 100. Rivets: 97484A345 Here is a comparison of the head sizes. Original rivet is on the left. 
To thread the rivets, I made a quick little jig to hold the rivets in the vise while I threaded them with the 1/4"x20 threading die. It was made by drilling a .25" hole in a piece of aluminum bar stock. I then slit the piece so when you tighten the vice it squeezes the rivet and keeps it from turning so you can thread them. 
So insert the rivet into the jig, tighten in the vice and get to threading. You will have to cut the rivets that hold the hinge to the case down in order to fit them under the angle aluminum that holds the plexiglass sides against the inside of the case. I forgot to record what length I made them, but make them long enough to pass through the hinge, the case, a washer and a jam nut. You will need to use the skinnier jam nuts to give you enough room behind the angle aluminum. The longer rivets are for attaching the hinge to the door. I then used the 000 steel wool to burnish the rivet head to give it a more stock looking appearance. 
Rivet from top of case, replacement solid rivet, my full length threaded rivet, cut down rivet (Left to Right) All in all a pretty easy fix if you have the same problems as I did. The most time consuming part was, of course, finding the replacement pieces. Please let fly with any questions if you have them!
The hinges I found are available in both removable and non-removable pin versions. Use whichever you would like, but i went with the non ones. The original hinges measured 2.5"x2.5" and these new ones match excellent. The part numbers for the unfinished aluminum hinges without pre-drilled holes are: Non-Removable Pin: 1609A42 Removable Pin: 1609A21 I used a .25" transfer punch to, uhh, transfer the hole spacing and location from the old broken hinge to the new one and drilled the holes out to .25". I then used 000 steel wool to make a brushed finish. If I had a sand blaster I could have gotten the finish closer to original, but alas that is on my to-buy list. Here is the progression of the hinges. 
The original hinges are held on by solid rivets, uhh, riveted in with an air hammer and forming/backing block. Since I did not have either of those two things handy, I decided to thread them like the threaded rivets holding the top of the case to the uprights. The original rivets have a head on them that are .630" in diameter and .110" tall. I finally found ones that matched as close as possible at McMaster-Carr. The ones I ordered have a head that is .615" in diameter and matches the height. The shank on them are .25" diameter x .625" long. The down side is you have to order these rivets in packages of 100. Rivets: 97484A345 Here is a comparison of the head sizes. Original rivet is on the left. 
To thread the rivets, I made a quick little jig to hold the rivets in the vise while I threaded them with the 1/4"x20 threading die. It was made by drilling a .25" hole in a piece of aluminum bar stock. I then slit the piece so when you tighten the vice it squeezes the rivet and keeps it from turning so you can thread them. 
So insert the rivet into the jig, tighten in the vice and get to threading. You will have to cut the rivets that hold the hinge to the case down in order to fit them under the angle aluminum that holds the plexiglass sides against the inside of the case. I forgot to record what length I made them, but make them long enough to pass through the hinge, the case, a washer and a jam nut. You will need to use the skinnier jam nuts to give you enough room behind the angle aluminum. The longer rivets are for attaching the hinge to the door. I then used the 000 steel wool to burnish the rivet head to give it a more stock looking appearance. 
Rivet from top of case, replacement solid rivet, my full length threaded rivet, cut down rivet (Left to Right) All in all a pretty easy fix if you have the same problems as I did. The most time consuming part was, of course, finding the replacement pieces. Please let fly with any questions if you have them!
